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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. But, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.